Tag: lovedogs

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Training your dog not to chase people, bicycles, joggers, etc

Dogs by nature are predatory animals, and all predatory animals share the motivation to chase fleeing objects.  While this may be a natural instinct, it is not appropriate when those fleeing objects are joggers, bicyclists or the Postman.

Training the dog not to chase people and bicycles is an important thing to do and it is best to start that training as early as possible.  Starting when the dog is still small and non-threatening is important, particularly with breeds that grow very large, or with breeds that have a reputation for being very aggressive.  Many people respond to being chased by a dog, especially a large dog, with understandable fear and it is best for yourself and your dog that he be trained not to chase before he reaches a threatening size.

Some dogs are easier to train away from chasing than others.  Breeds that have been used for hunting or herding often retain much more of their chasing instincts than other types of dogs, for instance.

No matter what breed of dog you are working with, however, it is important to not allow him off the lead until his chasing behavior has been curbed.  Allowing an untrained dog off the lead is dangerous, irresponsible and illegal.

Before you expose your dog to a situation where he will want to chase someone or something, be sure to train him in a safe, controlled area like a fenced in garden.  It is important for the dog to be able to focus and concentrate on you and for him to understand what behaviour you want.  The dog must be given the opportunity to repeatedly perform the behaviour you want while in this controlled setting.

The training session should be started indoors in the dog’s home.  The dog should be put on a lead and the owner and the dog should stand at one end of a hallway or a room.  The owner then waves a tennis ball in front of the dog but does not allow him to touch it.  After that, the tennis ball is rolled to the other end of the hallway or the room, and the command “Off” is used to tell the dog not to chase the ball.  If the dog starts out after the ball, use the command “Off” once again and give a firm tug on the lead.

When doing this type of training, it is vital that the dog not be allowed to touch the ball.  If he actually reaches the ball, he may think that “Off” means to get the ball.  This exercise should be repeated several times, until the dog has learned the meaning of the “Off” command.  When the dog responds correctly by not chasing the ball, he should be rewarded with a special treat.

After the dog seems to understand his new game, move to another room and try the same thing.  Repeat the exercise in several rooms of the house, in the garage, etc.  After the dog has seemingly mastered the game and learned the meaning of the “Off” command, you can work with him without the lead, but still only in a safe area like your own home or a fenced in garden.  It may take some time for the dog to fully master control of his chasing instinct and it is important not to rush the process, or to leave the dog off leash until you are sure he is fully trained.

To test the training in the real world, enlist the assistance of a friend to pose as a jogger.  It is important that the dog does not see and recognize this person; he has to assume that it is a stranger in order for the test to be valid.  Stand with the dog on his lead and have your friend jog by a couple of times while you do the “Off” exercise.  If the dog does as he is asked, be sure to provide lots of praise and treats.  If he starts after the “jogger”, give a firm reminder by tugging on the leash.

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Dog training – keeping your dog motivated

Keeping the attention of a dog while training is not always easy.  Dogs can be easily distracted, and it is important to not allow the training sessions to be sabotaged by boredom. Making training fun for the dog and the human alike is vital to creating a happy, well adjusted and well trained dog.

Providing random positive stimuli during the day is a great way to keep the interest of the dog.  Doing things the dog enjoys, like walking in the park, riding in the car and playing with other dogs, is a great way to keep the dog’s attention and reward him for small successes. 

For instance, in order to reward the dog for coming to you, ask the dog to come to you, without giving any clues about a walk, a car ride, or other treats.  After the dog has come to you and obediently sat down, attach the lead and start the reward.  This can be either the aforementioned walk in the park, ride in the car, or anything else the dog likes to do. 

Providing some kind of reward, whether a treat, a special outing, or just a scratch behind the ears, every time the dog does something you want, is a great way to keep your dog motivated.  If the dog knows something great is going to happen every time he obeys your command, he will be motivated to please you every time.

Distraction training

When training any dog, it is important to not let distractions disrupt the training.  The dog must be taught to ignore distractions, such as other people, other dogs, other animals and loud noises, and focus on what is being taught.  These types of distractions can even be used as rewards when training the dog to come when called.

For instance, if your dog enjoys playing with other dogs whether in a local dog park or with the neighbour’s dogs, let him play freely with those other dogs.  Then go into the park or garden and call your dog.  When he comes to you, provide lots of praise, treats and other rewards, then immediately allow the dog to go back to playing with his friends.  Repeat this several times and praise the dog each time he comes to you.  The dog will quickly learn that coming to you means good things (treats and praise) and not bad ones (being taken away from the park).

If the dog does not master this particular type of training right away, try not to get discouraged.  So called distraction training is one of the most difficult things to teach.  Dogs are naturally social animals, and breaking away from the pack is one of the most difficult things you can ask your dog to do.  Most dogs will be understandably reluctant to leave their canine companions, but it is important to persist.

Training the dog to come to you may require some creativity on your part at first.  For instance, waving a favorite toy, or a lure, is a great way to get your dog’s attention and put the focus back on you.  If your dog has been clicker trained, a quick click can be a good motivator as well.

Once the dog begins to get the hang of coming when called, you can begin to reduce and eliminate the visual cues and focus on getting the dog to respond to your voice alone.  It is important that the dog respond to voice commands alone, since you will not always have the availability of a toy or other lure.

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Dog training issues – refusing to come when called

Many dog owners fail to recognize the importance of having a dog that comes when called until there is a problem, such as the collar or lead breaking, or the dog tearing free to chase a person or another animal.  These situations can be dangerous for the dog, the owner and other members of the community.  In areas where there is a lot of vehicular traffic, the situation could even prove fatal to the dog.

Unfortunately, many well meaning owners sabotage this important part of their dog’s training by allowing it to run off lead and unattended.  Whether the dog is allowed to run in the park, on the beach, or just play with other dogs, this teaches the dog that there are many fun things that do not involve its owner.  In fact, from the dog’s perspective at least, these fun times are often ruined by the appearance of the owner.

Look at things from the dog’s perspective for a moment.  You – the dog – are having a ton of fun running on the beach with all your doggy friends and suddenly here comes this human to take you away from the fun.  When you see the dog’s point of view it is easy to see how the appearance of the owner and the lead can be seen as a negative.

This negative perception causes many dogs to delay this outcome by refusing to come when they are called.  From the dog’s point of view, this makes perfect sense, since every minute of delay means another minute of romping on the beach or in the park.  In other words, the dog has learned that the most rewarding thing to do is to ignore the calls of its owner.  While this may seem like a good idea to the dog, it is definitely not a good thing from the owner’s perspective.

For dogs who have not yet learned this type of avoidance behavior, it is best to prevent it from happening by supervising the dog at play and making the time you spend with your dog as much, or more, fun, as the time it spends alone or with other dogs.

For dogs that have already learned the value of ignoring their owner, some retraining is definitely in order.  It is vital that every dog respond to the “come here” command, for the safety of both humans and dogs alike.

One thing to avoid is following the “come here” command with unpleasant activities.  Calling the dog and then immediately giving him a bath, clipping his nails, taking him to the vet, etc. will quickly teach the dog that coming to the owner has negative consequences.  It is best to ask the dog to come and then play with him, feed him, walk him or engage in other fun activities.  If you do need to take your dog to the vet, bathe him, etc. make sure that you to allow some time to pass so the dog does not associate the “come here” command with the bad experience.

It is important to remember that dogs are constantly learning, whether a formal training session is in process or not.  Your dog is always learning something from you, whether good or bad.  It is therefore important to make every interaction with your dog a positive one.

When teaching the dog to come on command, it is vital that the dog be consistently rewarded every single time he does as the owner wants.  A reward can be as simple as a pat on the head, a “good boy” or a scratch behind the ears.  Of course, treat based rewards are appreciated as well, and many dogs are highly food motivated and respond quickly to this type of training.  The key is to be consistent.  The dog should get some kind of reward, whether it be praise, a toy, or a treat, every time he appears at the owners side when called.

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Training the dog to come when it is called

Training a dog to come when it is called is a vital and potentially lifesaving, part of any successful dog training program.  All properly trained dogs must learn to respond instantly to the owner’s voice and the sooner this lesson is learned the better.

The advantages of teaching a dog to come when called are obvious.  For starters, coming when called will help you regain control of the dog in case of collar break, snapped lead or other similar equipment failure.  This is particularly important when you are out with your dog, especially in an area with lots of traffic.  It is vital that the dog responds to your voice and returns to your side, even in the absence of collar and lead and even if there are lots of other things competing for its attention.

Coming when called is also a vital skill for every working dog.  Whether the dog’s job is herding sheep, guarding livestock, or sniffing out bombs and drugs at the airport, the working dog must be under total control at all times, whether on lead or off.

Even if your dog’s only job is being a loyal companion, it is still vital that he learn this important basic obedience exercise.  After the first obedience lessons, such as heeling, stopping on command, sitting on command, etc. have been learned, it is time to start incorporating the come when called lessons into the daily training sessions.

One note about dog training – it is all too easy for training sessions to become dull and routine for both handler and dog.  A bored dog will not be receptive to learning, just as a bored handler will not be a good teacher.  It is important, therefore, to always incorporate fun things and play into every training session.  Incorporating a few minutes of play time before the lesson begins can do wonders for the attitude of dog and human alike.  Likewise, ending each training session with a few minutes of free play time is a great way to end on a positive note and to help the dog associate obedience training with fun and not drudgery.

The command to stay and the command to come when called are often combined in obedience training lessons and they do go naturally together.  Start with the dog on a loose lead, ask the dog to sit and then slowly back away.  If the dog begins to get up and follow you, return to the dog and ask him to sit again.  Continue this process until you can reach the end of the lead without the dog getting up.

After you can successfully reach the end of the lead on a consistent basis, try dropping the lead altogether.  Of course you will want to do this in a controlled environment like a fenced in garden.  After the dog has mastered the stay command, it is time to add the come when called command.

Take up the lead again and with the dog on the end of the lead say “come” or “come here”. It is often helpful to use a lure when teaching this behavior.  The lure provides a visible item for the dog to focus on.  Teaching the dog to come to the lure is a good first step in training the dog to come when called.

Repeat this procedure many times until the dog will consistently stay and then come when called.  After the dog has mastered coming when called while attached to the lead, slowly start introducing the concept when the lead is removed.  As before, these training sessions should only take place in a controlled, safe environment, such as a fenced in front or back garden.

A well trained, obedient dog should respond to the call to return to its owner no matter where it is and no matter what distractions may occur.  It is therefore necessary to test the dog with distractions of your own.

If you have a neighbor, preferably one with a dog of his own, try having him come over with the dog.  Have him and the dog, stand just outside the fenced in area and repeat the come when called exercise with your dog off the lead.  If he becomes distracted by the other dog, put the lead back on and repeat the process.  The goal is to have your dog consistently pay attention to your commands, no matter what distractions may present themselves.

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Obedience Training Your Dog – the Importance of Rewards

Rewards just may be the single most important motivator in dog training.  Obedience training through the use of rewards and other positive reinforcements has long been recognized as the most effective method of reaching most dogs and getting the best possible results.

Making obedience training fun and even making it a bit of a game can be very important to keeping both the dog and the handler motivated and willing to learn. Incorporating a period of playtime at the beginning and end of every training session will make sure that every session begins and ends on a good note.

The most basic of all obedience commands is heeling, or walking with the handler on a loose lead.  This is usually the first obedience behaviour that is taught and it is an easy one to teach through reward training.  Begin by fitting the dog with a quality, properly fitted training lead and training collar.  If you are unsure of how to fit the training collar, be sure to ask a dog trainer or the manager at the store where the equipment is purchased.

Start walking with the dog, always being cognizant of the dog’s position relative to your own.  If the dog begins to forge ahead, gently pull on the leash.  This will engage the training collar and give the dog a gentle reminder to slow down.  It may be necessary to apply greater pressure at first until the dog learns to accept the correction.

If the dog begins to fall behind, slow down and gently urge the dog forward.  The use of a lure, or a favorite toy, can be very useful when teaching the dog to walk at your side.  By keeping the lure at the desired position for the dog, he or she should quickly learn the desired location.

Always be sure to provide plenty of praise, treats, toys and other rewards when the dog does what is expected of him.  Dogs learn best by positive reinforcement.  Positive reinforcement means that when the animal does what the handler wants, it receives a reward, which can be anything from a pat on the head to a treat to a favorite toy.  At the beginning of training, even the slightest attempts to please the owner should be rewarded.

Training by using reprimands and punishment is not nearly as effective as training by using rewards.  Dogs can become discouraged and confused by excessive amounts of punishment and reprimands.  Reprimands may be required from time to time, to correct potentially dangerous behaviours like chasing or biting, for instance, but reprimands should be short and directly attributed to the problem behaviour at hand. After the immediate danger has passed, the training should continue with reward based training and positive reinforcement.

For instance, if you come home and your dog is chewing the furniture or other inappropriate item, immediately give the dog a sharp “No” or “Off” and take the item away.  Then immediately give the dog one of his toys or other items that he is allowed to chew on and praise the dog enthusiastically when he takes the toy and begins to chew it.  This will teach the dog to associate chewing some items, like his toys, with praise and chewing inappropriate items with reprimand.

It is very important for the dog to make these associations, since it is very hard to change negative associations once they have formed.  It is always much easier to train proper obedience behaviours the first time than it is to go back and retrain a problem dog later on.  That does not of course mean that retraining is impossible, it simply means that it is more difficult.

Teaching a puppy, or an older dog, to associate the behaviours you value, such as coming when called, sitting on command, walking at your side, chewing only on toys, etc. with happy, fun times is the basis of all successful dog training.

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Dog Training – Dealing with Separation Anxiety

Separation anxiety, also known in the dog training world as owner absent misbehavior, is one of the most frequently encountered problems in the world of dog training.  Separation anxiety can manifest itself in many different ways, including chewing, destroying the owner’s property, excessive barking, self destructive behavior and inappropriate urination and defecation.

Dogs suffering from separation anxiety often whine, bark, cry, howl, dig, chew and scratch at the door the entire time their family members are away.  Well meaning owners often unwittingly encourage this misbehavior by rushing home to reassure the dog, but it is important for the well being of both dog and owner that the dog learn to deal with extended periods of separation.

How the owner leaves the house can often contribute to separation anxiety issues.  A long and drawn out period of farewell can make matters worse by making the dog feel even more isolated when the owner finally leaves.  These long types of farewells can get the dog excited, and then leave him with lots of excess energy and no way to work it off.  These excited, isolated dogs often work off their excess energy in the most destructive of ways, such as chewing up a favorite rug or piece of furniture.

Excess energy is often mistaken for separation anxiety, since results are often the same.  If you think that excess amounts of energy may be the problem, try giving your dog more exercise to see if that eliminates the problem.

If separation anxiety is truly the problem, it is important to address the root causes of that anxiety.  In order to prevent separation anxiety from occurring, it is important for the dog to feel happy, safe, secure and comfortable while the owner is away for the day.  It is important, for instance, to give the dog plenty of things to keep it busy while you are away.  This means providing it with lots of toys, such as balls or chew toys.  A pet companion is often effective at relieving separation anxiety as well.  Giving the dog a playmate, such as another dog or a cat, is a great way for busy pet parents and pets alike to cope with the stress of being left alone.

Setting aside scheduled play times, during which the pet is given your undivided attention, is another great way to alleviate boredom and separation anxiety.  Playing with the dog and providing it with sufficient attention and exercise, is a proven way to avoid a stressed and anxious dog.  A happy dog that has been well exercised and well conditioned will generally sleep the day away happily and patiently wait for the return of its owner. It is important to schedule one of these daily play sessions before you leave the house each day.  It is important to give the dog a few minutes to settle down after playtime before you leave.

For dogs that are already experiencing separation anxiety and associated misbehaviors, it is important to get him accustomed to your leaving gradually.  Be sure to practice leaving and returning at irregular intervals, several times during the day.  Doing so will get your dog accustomed to your deparartures and help him realize that you are not leaving him forever.  Dogs that have been previously lost, or those that have been surrendered to shelters and readopted, often have the worst problems with separation anxiety.  Part of treating this problem is teaching the dog that your leaving is not permanent.

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Eliminating problem behaviours when training your puppy

  Problem Number 1 – Jumping up on people

 

Unfortunately, eliminating problem behaviours is one thing that most dog owners eventually face.  This article will focus on a few of the most commonly encountered behavior problems.

One of the most frequently cited problems with dogs is that of jumping up on people.  Unfortunately, this is one of those behaviours that is often inadvertently encouraged by well meaning owners.  After all, it is cute and adorable when that little 10 pound puppy jumps up on you, your family members and your friends.  Many people reward this behavior on the part of a small puppy with kisses and treats.

This is a huge mistake, however, since that cute little puppy may soon become a full grown dog who could weigh well in excess of 100 pounds.  Suddenly that cute jumping behaviour is no longer quite so cute.

In addition to being annoying, jumping up on people can be dangerous as well.  A large, heavy dog, jumping enthusiastically, can easily knock over a child or an older or handicapped adult.  In today’s litigious society, such an incident could easily make you, as the dog’s owner, the subject of an unwanted lawsuit.

The time to teach a dog that jumping up on people is unacceptable is when he is still young and easy to handle.  Retraining a dog that has been allowed to jump up on people can be difficult for the owner and confusing for the dog.

When the puppy tries to jump on you or another member of your family, gently but firmly place the puppy’s feet back on the floor.  After the puppy is standing firmly on the floor, be sure to reward and praise him.

It is important for every member of the family, as well as frequently visiting friends, to understand this rule and follow it religiously.  If one member of the family reprimands the dog for jumping and another praises him, the dog will be understandably confused.  As with other dog training issues, consistency is the key to teaching the dog that jumping is always inappropriate.

When praising and rewarding the dog for staying down, it is important for the trainer to get down on the dog’s level.  Giving affection and praise at eye level with the puppy is a great way to reinforce the lesson.

Problem Number 2 – Pulling and tugging at the lead

Pulling on the lead is another problem trait that many puppies pick up.  Unfortunately, this behaviour is also one that is sometimes encouraged by well meaning owners. Playing games like tug of war with the lead, or even with a rope (that can look like the lead to the dog) can unwittingly encourage a problem behaviour.

The use of a quality body harness can be a big help when training a puppy not to pull, or retraining a dog that has picked up the habit of pulling on the lead.  Try training the puppy to accept the body harness the same way it accepts the regular buckle collar.

When walking with your dog, try using a lure or toy to encourage the dog to remain at your side.  A training collar, when properly used, can also be a good training tool for a problem dog.  When using a training collar or choke chain, however, it is very important to fit it correctly and to use a size that is neither too big nor too small for your dog.

When walking with your puppy, it is important to keep the lead loose at all times.  If the puppy begins to pull ahead, the handler should quickly change directions so that the puppy fast finds itself falling behind.  It is important to reverse directions before the puppy has reached the end of the lead.  The lead should stay loose except for the split second it takes the handler to reverse direction.  It is important to use a quick tug, followed by an immediate slackening of the lead.

When training a puppy, it is important to never let the puppy pull you around.  Training the puppy to walk properly while he or she is still small enough to handle is absolutely vital, especially when dealing with  a large breed of dog.  If your 150 pound Great Dane hasn’t learned to walk properly while he or she is still a 20 pound puppy, chances are it never will.

It is important not to yank or pull on the puppy’s neck when correcting him.  A gentle, steady pressure will work much better than a hard yank.  The best strategy is to use the least amount of pressure possible to achieve the desired result.

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Training your new puppy – eliminating bad habits

Anyone who owns a dog or puppy will eventually run into the need to eliminate unwanted habits.  While most dogs are eager to please their owners and smart enough to do what is asked of them, it is important for the owner to properly communicate just what constitutes acceptable and unacceptable behaviors.

 Each type of unacceptable behavior requires its own specific cures, and in most cases the cures will need to be tailored to fit the specific personality of the dog.  Every breed of dog has its own unique personality characteristics and every individual within that breed has his or her own unique personality.

 Whining, howling and excessive barking

 Let’s start with one of the most frequently encountered problem behaviours in both dogs and puppies.  While some barking and other vocalizing is perfectly normal, in many cases barking, howling and whining can become problematic.  This is particularly important for those living in flats, apartment buildings, or in closely spaced homes.  Fielding complaints about barking is not the best way for you and your dog to meet the neighbours.

 Some tips of dealing with excessive whining, barking and howling include:

 Ø  If your puppy or dog is howling or whining while confined to its crate, immediately take it to its toilet area.  Most puppies and dogs will whine when they need to do their business.

Ø  It is important to teach a dog or a puppy to accept being alone.  Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety and these stressed dogs can exhibit all sorts of destructive and annoying behaviors.  It is important to accustom the puppy to being left on its own, even when the owner is at home.

Ø  It is important to teach a dog or a puppy to accept being alone.  Many dogs suffer from separation anxiety and these stressed dogs can exhibit all sorts of destructive and annoying behaviors.  It is important to accustom the puppy to being left on its own, even when the owner is at home.

Ø  Always strive to make the puppy or dog as comfortable as possible.  Always attend to the physical and psychological needs of the dog by providing food, water and toys.

Ø  If the dog is whining, check for obvious reasons first.  Is the water dish empty?  Is the dog showing signs of illness?  Has his or her favorite toy rolled under the furniture?  Is the temperature of the room too hot or too cold?

Ø  Do not reward the puppy or dog for whining.  If the dog whines when left alone, for instance, it would be a mistake to go to the dog every time it whines.

Ø  After you have ensured that the dog’s physical needs are being met and that discomfort is not responsible for the whining, do not hesitate to reprimand the dog for inappropriate behaviour.

Problem Chewing

 

Puppies naturally chew and they tend to explore their world using their mouths and teeth.  While chewing may be normal, however, it is not acceptable, and it is important to nip any chewing problems in the bud to prevent the chewing puppy from growing into a chewing dog.

 Providing a variety of chew toys is important when teaching a puppy what is appropriate to chew and what is not.  Providing a variety of attractive chew toys is a good way to keep the puppy entertained and to keep his teeth and gums exercised.  Scented or flavored toys are great choices for most puppies. 

The puppy should be encouraged to play with these chosen toys, and the puppy should be effusively praised every time he or she plays with or chews these toys.

Another great strategy is to encourage the puppy to get a toy every time he or she greets you.  Every time the puppy greets you or a member of your family, teach him to get one of his toys.

It is also important to exercise good housekeeping techniques when training a puppy not to chew on inappropriate items.  Keeping the area to which the puppy has access free and clean is important.  Keeping items out of reach of the puppy will go a long way toward discouraging inappropriate chewing.  Try to keep the puppy’s area free of shoes, rubbish and other items and always make sure that the area has been properly puppy proofed.

If the puppy does pick up an inappropriate item like a shoe, distract the puppy and quickly replace the item with one of its toys.  After the puppy has taken the toy, praise it for playing with and chewing that toy.

If the puppy does pick up an inappropriate item like a shoe, distract the puppy and quickly replace the item with one of its toys.  After the puppy has taken the toy, praise it for playing with and chewing that toy.

Try booby trapping items the dog should avoid by spraying them with bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or other nasty tasting but non-toxic items.

 

 

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Teaching your puppy proper socialization skills

Teaching a puppy or a dog proper socialization skills is vital to the safety of both your dog and other dogs and people with whom he comes into contact.  A properly socialized dog is a happy dog and a joy to be around for both humans and animals.  A poorly socialized dog, or one with no socialization at all, is a danger to other animals, other people and even his own family.

Socialization is best done when the puppy is as young as possible  The socialization lessons a young puppy learns are difficult to undo and it is important to remember that the socialization skills the puppy learns will affect his behavior for the rest of his life.

A dog that is properly socialized will be neither frightened of nor aggressive towards either animals or humans.  A properly socialized dog will take each new experience and stimulus in stride, and not become fearful or aggressive.  Dogs that are not properly socialized often bite because of fear, and such a dog can become a hazard and a liability to the family who owns it.  Improperly socialized dogs are also unable to adapt to new situations.  A routine matter like a trip to the vets or to a friends house can quickly stress the dog out and lead to all sorts of problems. 

Socialization is best done when the puppy is very young, perhaps around 12 weeks of age.  Even after 12 weeks, however, it is important that the puppy continues its socialization in order to refine the all important social skills.  It is possible to socialize an older puppy, but it is very difficult to achieve after the all important 12 week period has passed.

There are so definite do’s and don’t when it comes to properly socializing any puppy.  Let’s start with what to do.  Later in this article we will explore what to avoid.

Socialization do’s

  • Make each of the socialization events as pleasant and non-threatening for the puppy as possible.  If a puppy’s first experience with any new experience is an unpleasant one, it will be very difficult to undo that in the puppy’s mind.  In some cases, an early trauma can morph into a phobia that can last for a lifetime.  It is better to take things slow and avoid having the puppy become frightened or injured.
  • Try inviting your friends over to meet the new puppy.  It is important to included as many different people as possible in the puppy’s circle of acquaintances, including men, women, children, adults, as well as people of all ages.
  • Also invite friendly and healthy dogs and puppies over to meet your puppy.  It is important for the puppy to meet a wide variety of other animals, including cats, hamsters, rabbits and other animals he is likely to meet.  It is of course important to make sure that all animals the puppy comes into contact with have received all necessary vaccinations.
  • Take the puppy to many different places, including shopping centers, pet stores, parks, school playgrounds and on walks around the neighborhood.  Try to expose the puppy to places where they will be crowds of people and lots of diverse activity going on.
  • Take the puppy for frequent short rides in the car.  During these rides, be sure to stop the car once in a while and let the puppy look out the window at the world outside.
  • Introduce your puppy to a variety of items that may be unfamiliar.  The puppy should be exposed to common items like bags, boxes, vacuum cleaners, umbrellas, hats, etc. that may be frightening to him.  Allow and encourage the puppy to explore these items and see that he has nothing to fear from them.
  • Get the puppy used to a variety of objects by rearranging familiar ones.  Simply placing a chair upside down, or placing a table on its side, creates an object that your puppy will perceive as totally new.
  • Get the puppy used to common procedures like being brushed, bathed, having the nails clipped, teeth cleaned, ears cleaned, etc.  Your groomer and your veterinarian with thank you for this.
  • Introduce the puppy to common things around the house, such as stairs.  Also introduce the puppy to the collar and leash, so he will be comfortable with these items.

There are of course some things to avoid when socializing a puppy. These socialization don’ts include:

  • Do not place the puppy on the ground when strange animals are present.  An attack, or even a surprise inspection, by an unknown animal could traumatize the puppy and hurt his socialization.
  • Do not inadvertently reward fear based behavior.  When the puppy shows fear, it is normal to try to sooth it, but this could reinforce the fear based behavior and make it worse.  Since biting is often a fear based behavior, reinforcing fear can create problems with biting.
  • Do not force or rush the socialization process.  It is important to allow the puppy to socialize at his own pace.
  • Do not try to do too much too soon.  Young puppies have short attention spans, and continuing lessons after that attention span has passed will be a waste of your time and your puppy’s.
  • Do not wait too long to begin.  There is a short window in which to begin the socialization process.  A young puppy is a blank slate, and it is important to fill that slate with positive socialization skills as early as possible.
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Training your new puppy to accept the collar and lead

Walking on a collar and lead is an important skill that every dog must learn.  Even the best trained dog should never be taken outside the home or yard without a sturdy collar and leash.  Even if your dog is trained perfectly to go off lead, accidents and distractions do happen and a collar, with proper identification attached, is the best way to be sure you will get your beloved companion back.

Of course before you can teach your new puppy to accept a leash, he or she must first learn to accept wearing a collar.  The first step is to choose a collar that fits the dog properly.  It is important to measure the puppy’s neck and to choose a collar size accordingly.  After the collar has been put on the puppy, simply let him or her get used to it.  It is not unusual for a puppy to try to pull on the collar, whine, roll or squirm when first introduced to a collar. 

The best strategy is to simply ignore the puppy and let him or her get used to the collar.  It is a mistake to either punish the dog for playing with the collar or to encourage the behavior.  Distracting the puppy often helps, and playing with a favorite toy, or eating some favorite treats, can help the puppy quickly forget that he or she is wearing this strange piece of equipment.

After the dog has learned to accept the collar, try adding the leash.  Hook the leash to the collar and simply sit and watch the puppy.  Obviously, this should only be done either in the house or in a confined outdoor area.  The puppy should be allowed to drag the leash around on its own, but of course the owner should keep a close eye on the puppy to ensure that the leash does not become snagged or hung up on anything.

At first, the leash should only be left on for a few minutes at a time.  It is a good idea to attach the leash at mealtimes, playtime and other positive times in the life of the puppy.  That way the puppy will begin to associate the leash with good things and look forward to it.  If the puppy shows a high degree of fear of the leash, it is a good idea to place it next to the food bowl for awhile to let him get used to it slowly.  Eventually, he will come to understand that the leash is nothing to be afraid of.

After the puppy is comfortable with walking around the house wearing the leash, it is time for you to pick up the end of the leash for a few minutes.  You should not try to walk the puppy on the leash; simply hold the end of the leash and follow the puppy around as he or she walks around.  You should try to avoid situations where the leash becomes taut and any pulling or straining on the leash should be avoided.  It is fine for the puppy to sit down.  Try a few games with the collar and lead.  For instance, back up and encourage the puppy to walk toward you.  Don’t drag the puppy forward, simply encourage him to come to you.  If he does, praise him profusely and reward him with a food treat or toy.  You should always strive to make all the time spent on the leash as pleasant as possible.

It is important to give the puppy plenty of practice in getting used to walking on the leash in the home.  It is best to do plenty of work in the home, since it is a safe environment with few distractions.  After the puppy is comfortable walking indoors on a leash, it is time to start going outside, beginning of course in a small, enclosed area like a fenced yard.  After the puppy has mastered walking calmly outdoors on a leash, it is time to visit some places where there are more distractions.  You may want to start with a place like a neighbor’s yard.  Walking your new puppy around the neighborhood is a good way to introduce your neighbors to the new puppy, while giving the puppy valuable experience in avoiding distractions and focusing on his leash training.

Puppies sometimes develop bad habits with their leashes, such as biting or chewing on the leash.  To discourage this type of behavior, try applying a little bit of bitter apple, Tabasco sauce or similar substance (just make sure the substance you use is not toxic to dogs).  This strategy usually convinces puppies that chewing the leash is a bad idea.